Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Walking, walking, and more walking....


"There are seven hills of Istanbul, and I think we hit them all today" Brenda 2009 CMES member.
Today's topic was the architecture of the early Ottoman period in Istanbul (15 and 16th centuries). We had planned to take public transportation, but due to some snafu with the metro "card" system, we had to walk more than expected to catch the bus we needed to take us to the Fatih area of Istanbul and the mosque complex of Mehmet II (Mehmet the conqueror). The mosque is being re-done so we spent more time in the tomb building and outside, than inside. After one of our teachers had his shoes stolen from the mosque shoe rack while we were inside we went shoe shopping ( he just got some flip flops to get through the day). We then walked through a labrynth of streets to get to another mosque of the period but with different design. We got "shushed" by the imam (priest) for talking while others were praying. I had to admit that it felt intrusive to be there talking about the building while others were there to pray. Also - being covered head-to-toe is VERY hot - and not the attractive hot, either!
We then rode the light rail to the next mosque but stopped for lunch first. We are quite an invasive group when we appear at these little sidewalk cafes 14 strong! Perhaps not unlike Mehmet's invaders except we have cash. :-)
One note - every mosque complex has a resident cat population....thin but friendly.
After lunch we walked to two more mosques (we now each had a bag to carry our shoes in while we were in the mosque) , a rug shop, and then went to the Grand Bazaar - the first indoor shopping mall, 3000 little shops - built in the late 1400's. What a sensory overload! Everyone wants to show you something, sell you anything.....it was almost too much. I felt awful for having to be almost rude to keep people from harrangueing Jess and me. The only time I got mad was when a guy took hold of my arm to try to get me to come into his shop.
But the best thing of the day was the aforementioned rug shop. We were treated to teas and coffees and then a full explanation and demonstration of the different carpet(rug) weave patterns, materials, techniques, and results. The silk knotted carptes were so amazing! And so out of a teacher's salary - in fact more than most teacher's annual salary - $66,000 for one containing 1.5 knots per mm square. But oh, the softness and luxury! My roomate and I will be checking out another rug shop she was recommended to just before we come home - don't want to have to lug anything around Anatolia and the Balkans for the next 3 weeks!
Exhaustion is setting in (not sleeping well yet) so I'll close and download pictures later.

2 comments:

  1. Shushed by an Imam? There aren't many people in our circle of friends that have that experience. Nor have any of us been to a "mall" where there are 3000 shops! Overload?? I'd be catatonic. Seizures would probably ensue.

    Fascinating glimplse of life in Eastern Asia.

    Thank you!

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  2. the shoe incident reminds me of slumdog millionair--the trip sounds and looks amazing! mom is here and looked quickly at the pictures with me

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