Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Byzantine sites


Today our tour guide became our interpreter as she, Arzu, is a doctoral student in Byzantine art and archetecture. We went to the Hagya Sofia, fourth largest ancient church stucture in the world. It was first built in the 5th century of wood. I don't recall the exact dates but it burned partially twice and then Justinian had the stone and brick church built. In 14534, when Mehmet the Conqueror succeeded in capturing Constantinople (now Istanbul), he oredered the church refurbished as a Mosque. Concealed buttresses were added during Suleyman the Magnificent's reigh by renowned Ottoman architect, Sinan, to support the massive dome that is 13 stories above the ground. The Moslems did not allow icons, pictures, or statues, so the frescoes, mosaics and icons were covered with fresh plaster or heavy tapestries, effectively preserving them for our enjoyment today! It is truly a magnificent and awe inspiring place of worship.
We then went to ancient Roman sites of the hippodrome and underground cisterns. We could use a cistern like that in our rainwater collection system!
After a delightful lunch of fresh pomengranet juice and a sandwhich wrap, we went to another Byzantine church-turned-mosque, with well preserved frescoes and mosaics. It was much smaller though the art no less impressive. We ended our day in the fortifications of old Constantinople near where the Ottomans breached the wall after a 60 day seige on the city and took it over, a feat considered virtually impossible and inconceivable at the time. The wall has a three-tiered system of earth and stone works, towers, windows and breastworks. Walking up and down the narrow, steepsteps to the tops of the walls was hard enough with just a camera to carry - I can't imagine fully armed and protected soldiers going up and down them, esp. if under attack!
Jessica and I went to a fun little corner shop for supper, had an assortment of puff pastry sandwiches and a to-die-for raspberry torte. We split each thing so we weren't over stuffed. I then had a Turkish coffee. My spoon didn't quite stay standing in the cup, but I had quite a slurry in the bottom of my cup! Unlike American espresso, this strong coffee is not in the least way bitter. I do think I will need to stay away from it in the evenings from now on though.....I'm still pretty wide awake!
Tomorrow is a "major mosque day". Which means pretty much all covered.....I think I'll bring a short-sleeeved top to change into before we go to the Grand Bazaar (One of the world's first malls - late 1400's) in the afternoon. Oh yea - and we will learn the Istanbul mass transit system....let's hope we can find our way back tomorrow night!
Later....pics on picassa....http://picasaweb.google.com/lwaagen/Turkey630#
Linda

2 comments:

  1. Ooooh! I want to try their coffee! What a great narative, Linda. Thank you so much for "taking us along"! Not quite like being there but we have a good feel for what your day was like and are jealous!

    Randy :-)

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